Differences

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--- m365-trace-cut [2021/02/09 14:20] – old revision restored (2021/02/09 13:53) tidings
+++ m365-trace-cut [2023/01/31 16:37] (current) – odex tidings
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 ====== Trace cut, mosfet upgrade and trace reinforcing guide ======
-** For M365 v1.5 and earlier ESC **
+**For M365 v2.1 and earlier ESC **
 ===== Prerequisities: =====
@@ Line 21: / Line 22: @@
   * <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>1000uF 100V Jamicon cap</font>
   * <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>33uF 100V any other brand</font>
+  * <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>100V TPS7A4001 LDO board from Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32926165539.html</font>
 ===== Trace reinforcing =====
@@ Line 37: / Line 39: @@
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>Please see the attached picture for how the end result should look like in approximation.</font>
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_6.jpg?nolink&640x475}}
 ===== Mosfet upgrade =====
@@ Line 43: / Line 47: @@
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>Use side cutters to cut all 6 MOSFETs as close to their package as possible. Then, use leaded solder to tin the legs which now remain. Straighten out legs on the board, so that new package can be soldered on top. Cut the legs on your new IRFB4110, just before the point where the width increases, then tin the bottom side of those legs. Now, solder them on the remaining legs on the PCB, starting with the side contacts first, and then finishing up with the center one. Once done, ensure all MOSFETs are soldered on properly, by pushing them upwards slightly, to check if all the legs are properly attached.</font>
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_16.jpg?nolink&640x480}}
 ===== Trace cut =====
- Use dremel with 5mm grinding bit to slowly and carefully grind away the positive pad leading from XT30 connector to the capacitor. Alternatively, you can use sharp knife or exacto knife to cut it, but make sure the connection is securely severed.
+Use dremel with 5mm grinding bit to slowly and carefully grind away the positive pad leading from XT30 connector to the capacitor. Alternatively, you can use sharp knife or exacto knife to cut it, but make sure the connection is securely severed.
 ===== Capacitor upgrade =====
@@ Line 53: / Line 58: @@
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>Now install Jamicon cap. Bend its negative leg, minding its polarity and insert them into the respective hole. Cut, so that about 5mm sticks out, then put solder around it. Finally cut the remains which stick out. The positive pole will connect straight to positive from XT30 (not where the capacitor originally was).</font>
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_10.jpg?nolink&640x480}}
 ===== LDO board installation =====
@@ Line 63: / Line 70: @@
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>Now solder it to the board. VOUT should go to the positive, where the 1000uF cap was originally connected, VIN and GND should be connected to XT30 pins. Once done with soldering, put a piece of kapton tape on the positive on the capacitor side.</font>
+<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>-</font>
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_11.jpg?nolink&640x480}}
+<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>-</font>
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_15.jpg?nolink&640x480}}
 ===== 2 nd cap upgrade =====
- Repeat the process of cap removal and replacement also for small 63V 33uF located close to the main input cap. Replace it with 100V 33uF
+Repeat the process of cap removal and replacement also for small 63V 33uF located close to the main input cap. Replace it with 100V 33uF
 ===== Final testing =====
- Connect 36V 0.2A on the XT30 input. Check voltage between VOUT of the step down and GND, while raising voltage up to 60V. The voltage should not go beyond 48V. If it doesn’t, then you can start assembly.
+Connect 36V 0.2A on the XT30 input. Check voltage between VOUT of the step down and GND, while raising voltage up to 60V. The voltage should not go beyond 48V. If it doesn’t, then you can start assembly.
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_4.jpg?nolink&474x640}}
 ===== Assembly =====
@@ Line 77: / Line 92: @@
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>Use kapton tape for the bottom of the LDO board, insulating all contacts from the ESC enclosure, then cut a small hole in it, where the center rectangle is on the board, and put a blob of thermal adhesive there (Kafuter 5205 recommended). Stick it to the ESC enclosure, as seen on the picture, and let it cure for about 8-10 hours.</font>
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_13.jpg?nolink&640x480}}
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>Once this is done, begin reassembly, minding all the parts that should come in together (outer silicone ring too).</font>