Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- m365-trace-cut [2021/02/09 14:34] – tidings
+++ m365-trace-cut [2023/01/31 16:37] (current) – odex tidings
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 ====== Trace cut, mosfet upgrade and trace reinforcing guide ======
-**For M365 v1.5 and earlier ESC **
+**For M365 v2.1 and earlier ESC **
 ===== Prerequisities: =====
@@ Line 20: / Line 22: @@
   * <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>1000uF 100V Jamicon cap</font>
   * <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>33uF 100V any other brand</font>
+  * <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>100V TPS7A4001 LDO board from Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32926165539.html</font>
 ===== Trace reinforcing =====
@@ Line 44: / Line 47: @@
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>Use side cutters to cut all 6 MOSFETs as close to their package as possible. Then, use leaded solder to tin the legs which now remain. Straighten out legs on the board, so that new package can be soldered on top. Cut the legs on your new IRFB4110, just before the point where the width increases, then tin the bottom side of those legs. Now, solder them on the remaining legs on the PCB, starting with the side contacts first, and then finishing up with the center one. Once done, ensure all MOSFETs are soldered on properly, by pushing them upwards slightly, to check if all the legs are properly attached.</font>
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_16.jpg?nolink&640x480}}
-<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent></font>
 ===== Trace cut =====
@@ Line 57: / Line 59: @@
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>Now install Jamicon cap. Bend its negative leg, minding its polarity and insert them into the respective hole. Cut, so that about 5mm sticks out, then put solder around it. Finally cut the remains which stick out. The positive pole will connect straight to positive from XT30 (not where the capacitor originally was).</font>
-<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>-</font>
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_10.jpg?nolink&640x480}}
-<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent></font>
-<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>-</font>
 ===== LDO board installation =====
@@ Line 76: / Line 74: @@
 {{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_11.jpg?nolink&640x480}}
--
-<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent></font>
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>-</font>
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_15.jpg?nolink&640x480}}
 ===== 2 nd cap upgrade =====
@@ Line 90: / Line 84: @@
 Connect 36V 0.2A on the XT30 input. Check voltage between VOUT of the step down and GND, while raising voltage up to 60V. The voltage should not go beyond 48V. If it doesn’t, then you can start assembly.
--
 {{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_4.jpg?nolink&474x640}}
--
 ===== Assembly =====
@@ Line 103: / Line 93: @@
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>Use kapton tape for the bottom of the LDO board, insulating all contacts from the ESC enclosure, then cut a small hole in it, where the center rectangle is on the board, and put a blob of thermal adhesive there (Kafuter 5205 recommended). Stick it to the ESC enclosure, as seen on the picture, and let it cure for about 8-10 hours.</font>
-<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>-</font>
+{{https://cloud.scooterhacking.org/tidings/wiki/guides/img/tracecut/tracecut_13.jpg?nolink&640x480}}
-<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent></font>
-<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>.</font>
-<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent></font>
-<font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>-</font>
 <font inherit/inherit;;inherit;;transparent>Once this is done, begin reassembly, minding all the parts that should come in together (outer silicone ring too).</font>